Friday, August 19, 2011

The Best Laid Plans…..

…as some Scottish chap once wrote. We set of yesterday from Tewitfield after collecting a Tesco delivery at the service wharf opposite the mooring. The driver had no problem deciphering the location instructions; he lives in an apartment at the marina complex next door!

Just before we set off the wide beam MV Kingfisher arrived with an excursion party. This is the trip boat/waterbus based at Lancaster, which normally plies the waters between Lancaster and Carnforth.

Leaving Tewitfield, MV Kingfisher disgorging her human cargo.

We’ll be back again, it’d be nice to say when the Northern Reaches are open up to Kendal, but that’s unlikely in the near future.

Oh, before I forget, to answer Carol’s query – maximum length on the Ribble Link is 62 feet, Glasson Dock Branch 72 feet, Rufford Branch (L&L) 62 feet, so Rock 'n' Roll'l be able to get here OK. Just don’t forget a boarding plank….

Anyhow, back to yesterday. Plan A was to move just a mile or 2 from the noise of the motorway at Tewitfield, moor for the night in the sticks, then head for Carnforth today to stop there for the weekend. I’d already spied out several likely-looking spots on my morning run.

Reflections at Bridge 136

More reflections near Capernwray.

At least they’re not eating the water lilies this time!

Yes, it is a grass covered roof on NB Santa Cruz

We tried each and every potential mooring over the next 3 miles, thwarted at each by shallow water. We couldn’t get the fore-end in closer than 2½ feet, a no-no for Meg who won’t use the plank. Frustrated we moved onto Plan B, moor in Carnforth a day early. After all, it was only 13:30 and there’s lots of moorings, isn’t there. Wrong. The reason we’d seen no boats all morning is that they’re all moored here! We did try, right at the end of the officially marked moorings, but yes, you’ve guessed, too shallow.

Just up from Carnforth there’s what looks like an old lock chamber. The quoin where the gate post would be anchored is clearly visible. May just have been a stop lock to protect the embankment a little north.

Old lock copings

On we plodded, now on Plan C. We’d spotted some 7 day moorings at Bolton-Le-Sands on the way up, and although a bit shaded in a cutting, they’d do for one night. Anyway, I’d not had a look round this village yet.

I couldn’t believe it when we crunched to a halt on the rocky bottom still a good way from the concrete edge. Three times we tried, 3 times we failed. There were 2 boats moored near Bridge 125, I guess this is the only bit that’s deep enough to get in.

We managed to get Meg off for the pee that she was desperate for by this time, then carried on, finally finishing up back at Hest Bank, overlooking the bay. At least there’s space and sufficient water here for more than a rubber duck!

We did consider turning around and trying Carnforth again this morning, but Mag’s son George rang to say he was on his way, so we stayed put. His wife, Christine, came with him this time. She couldn’t come last week, there wasn’t room in the car. They stayed for a couple of hours before setting off on a shopping trip.

The afternoon turned cloudy and windy, so we decided to stay put. We’ll probably go back and try again early next week. I’d like to have a look around the town.

Had a call from Dave on NB Liberty Bell last evening. They made the return crossing back to the Leeds and Liverpool at Tarleton with no drama. We’ll maybe catch up with them later in September as we’re traveling in the same direction.

Locks 0, miles 7

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Lancaster Canal, Northern Reaches.

When we arrived here at the Tewitfield terminus Meg and I took a walk up the flight of locks that lift the canal 75 feet before it heads for Kendal.

We’re moored with our stern almost against the first obstacle, the raised bank with a culvert through it which carried the old road before the motorway was built.

Dead End.

On the other side of the bank, which is high enough to put a short tunnel through, the bottom of the flight of 8 locks is reached within a few yards.

Other end of the Tewitfield Culvert

Tewitfield Bottom Lock, number 8.

The well constructed stone lock chambers are in remarkably good condition, considering they’ve been disused for nearly 70 years.

The gates have been removed on all the locks, but the ground paddle gear on one side still remains, presumably to drop excess water through the locks. The upper gates have been replaced with a concrete dam to keep the intermediate pounds in water.

Ground Paddle, Lock 7

A bit of vegi-management is needed at Lock 6, before the copings become damaged by roots.

Shifting stonework

The flight climbs alongside the motorway for ½ a mile, so the pounds are short. Above lock 6 the channel becomes narrow and weedy, but still viable.

Lock 2, and beyond, Lock 1

Above the top lock there’s about 500 yards of channel still navigable before the water appears out of the culvert underneath the M6.

Bridge 141, the last before the motorway.

Cinderbarrow Culvert

It’ll be good to see this from a boat…..

The photos show that there’s not enough headroom to drive a tunnel through the motorway embankment. So the plan is to re-site the top lock to the other side of the road, thereby lowering the canal at this point by around 9 feet. That will allow sufficient height for a tunnel.

Looking downhill from Br 141

To get the canal from the current head of navigation to Kendal will involve the construction of 6 short tunnels under roads, 1 aqueduct over the A590, 2 new bridges (one of them moveable) and a couple of lengths of completely new channel. Quite a challenge, but the trip would be fantastic. Although alongside the motorway, the locks are pretty, and above them the canal winds through beautiful countryside between the Dales fells and the south Cumbrian fells. Kendal is an attractive market town, well worth the journey.

There’s lots more info here.

Today is pretty miserable (that’s why I took the photos yesterday, I’d seen the forecast!), overcast and drizzly. I took Meg for a ramble across the fields, ending up at the village of Borwick, before returning along the canal.

Pastoral scenery

Borwick village green

Borwick Hall….

….with it’s impressive gatehouse.

The Hall was built in it’s present form around 1600, but various additions and alterations have occurred since. Originally it was owned by 3 generations of the Binloss family, each in turn called Robert, who were wealthy cloth merchants. The house then passed to the local Standish family through the 3rd Robert’s daughter Cecelia’s marriage. This was another union without a male heir, so the estate then passed to a member of the influential Sizergh family, Thomas Strickland. The hall then passed through several hands before being taken over by the MOD during WWII. After the war it had a brief spell as a resort (Middleton Towers Holiday Camp) before being bought by Lancashire Youth Clubs Association. It’s now owned by the Lancashire Education Authority and is run as an outdoor education and conference centre.

Borwick’s website is here.

Locks 0, miles 0 (by boat, anyway)

Monday, August 15, 2011

A stay at Hest Bank and a cruise to the end.

Following the “generation get-together” on Thursday, we had Mags’ son Eric and his wife Diane come and visit on Friday afternoon. We got a phone call around lunch-time, “Where are you, we’ve wandered all around the Waterwitch in Lancaster, and we can’t find you!” That’s because we’re in Hest Bank, I explained…

Anyway, they did find us finally, and we had a good afternoon catching up.

On Saturday, still at Hest Bank, we were treated to a Thai afternoon, our friends Val and John turning up with their friends (and ours too, now) Yen and Mike. They came laden with Thai curry, a mild chicken curry, rice and noodles. And wine, of course. Mags provided the puddings, apple crumble and a fresh strawberry flan.

We had an excellent afternoon, and we’ll all be getting together again before we head south.

The gang, all full up.

L-R, John, Mike, Mags, Val and Yen.

A couple of pics for Yen, she loves swans.

We had a quiet day yesterday, the only visitors being Dave and Barbara on NB Liberty Bell who stopped for a brew on their way back towards Preston. They’d been up to the terminus at Tewitfield while we’d been entertaining. They are due back across the Ribble on Thursday. We’ve still got nearly 3 weeks on this delightful canal.

I’ve taken Meg down onto the foreshore a couple of times, at low tide there’s a huge amount of space for her to let off steam. She gets blathered in sand and mud, but it washes off.

Meg on the salt marshes, the south Cumbrian fells in the background.

It’s a pity we didn’t have clear weather while we were there, low cloud and haze obscured the higher peaks inland.

Southward towards Morecambe

Straight across the bay to Walney Island

And northwards towards Grange-Over-Sands

A little out in the bay there’s a derelict wharf, once used to unload goods from coasters due for transhipment by canal.

Old Wharf.

Now covered at high tide, it was made redundant by the coming of the railway.

The West Coast Main Line runs between the canal and the sea.

Even though spring tides cover the salt marshes, remarkably heather seems to thrive in patches.

Heather on the foreshore.

The receding tide leaves drifts of shells behind

This morning dawned dry and bright after a drop of overnight rain, time for us to move on.

Hest Bank long term moorings, the Sanitary Station on the left is closed “Until Further Notice”

No matter, this must be one of the best serviced canals on the network.

Hest Bank Bridge, the white building on the left was the transhipment warehouse, used to store goods in transit between sea and canal.

The canal runs steadily north and slightly west, parallel to the coast which is often visible above the rooftops of Bolton-Le-Sands.

Long views over the roofs.

Mag’s mum lived here for a while, just a few yards from the canal.

Carnforth is a popular mooring spot, most congregating around Canal Turn, where there’s a boatyard, pub and another sani-station.

Canal turn, Carnforth.

We did the necessary tank emptying and filling, then set off again on the last leg to the terminus.

This last 3 miles is often twisty, narrow and weedy, but is the best bit so far of this fine navigation.

Oops, another sharp turn

Every corner brings another view, either of rolling pastures or distant hills.

Cruising north of Carnforth

The photos speak for themselves…

Here’s something you don’t see every day…

Unusual diet

Grazing on water lilies.

After 2 unsuccessful attempts to get in to the side near the marina, we motored right up to the end, turned around and moored in the dead-end arm that will one day again be the route through to Kendal.

Moored at the end

A detailed plan to re-open “The Northern Reaches” has been devised, all that’s needed now is the will and the funding. Could be a while yet, then. But I know where I want to be when the first boats go north…..

Sorry about the length of this post, but I’ve let you off a couple of days!

Locks 0, miles 7

Thursday, August 11, 2011

A trip to the seaside, almost.

We stayed put during yesterday’s appalling weather. August? More like November! Very few boats were moving, which was hardly surprising.

Today’s forecast was better, less rain, less wind, a bit warmer. So we decided to move on up to Hest Bank.

Murky Panorama of the city this morning.

Away from the Lancaster moorings.

It was a bit drizzly when we left, and it was much the same for the 1¾ hours we cruised. Shame really, it’s a very pleasant rural stretch north of Lancaster.

The canal through the city is pretty good too. OK, there’s the inevitable collections of plastic bottles in places, but graffiti doesn’t seem to be much of a problem, the towpaths are clean and there’s little rubbish on the bank.

Through the edge of Lancaster.

The navigation skirts the city centre to the south and east, looking down into the Lune valley.

Leaving the built-up area the canal has two obstacles to cross. The first is the A683 Kirby Lonsdale road…..

Over the A683 on the modern aqueduct, constructed in 1961.

We’ve used this road a few times, between home and Lancaster.

The long trough of the Lune Aqueduct is next.

This is another of John Rennie’s fine designs, completed in 1797. It carries the canal 60 feet above the river, the stone trough originally sealed with puddle clay like the normal canal.

On the Lune Aqueduct

The river is a bit full after all that rain.

The high cost of the construction made the canal company shareholders reconsider building a similar one over the Ribble near Preston. Instead a tramway was used to connect with the branch that left the Leeds and Liverpool Canal at Johnsons Hillock. This unfortunate decision led to the Lancaster Canal being isolated from the main network until the Millennium Ribble Link was opened in 2002.

Rural scenery north of Lancaster.

We’d arranged to meet family at Hest Bank and they were just coming along the towpath as we tied up. Liberty Bell arrived shortly afterwards and there were plenty of willing helpers for the mooring operation…..

Helpers? For Barbara.

We spent an enjoyable if a little noisy afternoon, trying to keep two small children occupied in a narrowboat on a damp afternoon is not easy. Then I remembered Mags’ DS Lite. Aah, peace!

Generation Game.

Mags, son George, Grandson Steven, Great-Grandkids Luke, Sytoria and Courtney. Meg has to get in the act as well.

Steven's not normally that shape, he's wearing a sling after an accident dislocated his left shoulder and broke his upper arm. Ouch!

It was good to see them, we’d not seen the little ones since they were considerably littler…

We’ll stay here for a couple of days. If the weather clears we’ve got good views of Morecambe Bay, and we’ve more guests on Saturday.

The Bay is over there somewhere....

Locks 0, miles 4½