In the 14thC York was England’s second richest city, a thriving inland port trading with the continent, but by the end of the 16thC silting of the channel and the use of larger ships made the river un-navigable for economic use, and the port declined in favour of Hull docks. Improvements in the navigation including the construction of Naburn Locks in 1757 did little to slow the slide, and the introduction of the railways dealt the final blow.
And following along behind all this history is us, on a narrowboat that is very little different in size to the early Norse longships that first sailed up from the Humber. The difference is they crossed the North Sea to get here!
The window for us to catch the flood tide to help us upstream was around 12:30, giving me time for another trip to the shops this morning.
Pierced steel sculpture near Selby Basin
That swing bridge that caused us problems yesterday. It’s behaved impeccably since.
We shared the lock with Mike and Maggie on NB Rose of Arden dropping maybe 15 feet to the river.
Selby Lock with NB Rose of Arden
Narrowboats tend to time travel on tidal rivers to go with the flow, upstream with the flood, downstream with the ebb. But today it probably wouldn’t have made much difference. It was a neap tide, only a couple of feet rise so not so much water to push us up. A good job it’s been dry recently, as there wasn’t much “fresh” coming down.
Leaving Selby Lock
Out on to the Ouse, going under the railway swing bridge
Just around the corner the large Hovis (BOCM) mill looms on the right, attended by now-derelict wharves.
Ee bah gum, it's as good fer yer today as it's allus bin...
I spent the next 10 minutes whistling Dvorak's New World Symphony.....
I expected to be able to see a little more than we actually could. The river is confined in high flood banks, with trees and bushes limiting the view. Unlike the Trent where a steady procession of power stations and riverside pubs give you a chance to see where you are, the Ouse keeps your location secret, just the odd house roof showing above the foliage.
Near horizons
So that’s why they call it the Ouse…
Ooze!
We did have a bit of excitement approaching the village of Cawood, a ski-boat towing a couple of guys on boards came racing round the corner…
…slowed down when they saw us…
…then disappeared downstream at a rate of knots.
Then followed the village itself with a swing bridge over the river.
Cawood Swing Bridge
The bridge piers are protected from flood debris (and inattentive boat skippers) by huge timber guard rails. There’s a lay-by pontoon on the right, but it looks none to safe to me.
All the excitement comes in one go, another mile or so and the confluence of the River Wharfe is passed.
In comes the River Wharfe
That water has come 60 twisting miles from it’s source high in the Yorkshire Dales near Plover Hill. On it’s way it’s been joined by springs and becks filtered through subterranean limestone caverns, unseen by man. I sound like a bottled water ad…
We’d not seen a proper boat for two hours, then blow me down two come along at once!
Oh, hello!
There’s only two settlements on the river up to Naburn, Cawood with it’s swing bridge and Acaster Selby. Neither show much of themselves to water-borne travellers.
A bit of Acaster Selby
And that was about it for sightseeing. Oh I forgot the glimpse of early 19thC Moreby Hall….
Just a glimpse – there, between the trees!
A few more bends and suddenly there was Naburn Locks ahead, with an impressive weir alongside.
NB Rose of Arden heads into the lock
And we join them a few minutes later.
Looks quite nice here…
Moored above the lock
We got sorted out then Mike and Maggie joined us for a couple of beers. It’s been a good day, not particularly exciting but then we’ve seen the Ouse at it’s most docile. Looking at the height of some of the flood debris I guess it can get a little more fraught…
Locks 2, miles 15
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