Woke up to another gloomy, damp morning. Still quite mild, but feeler cooler because of the damp air. We were meeting Mags’ sister Audrey in Leigh, so got under way at 10:00.

Although landscaped and starting to recover from its industrial past, I thought this area was still pretty bleak. The towpaths have been surfaced with colliery waste, and as such, support little in the way of vegetation. The embankments raising the canal above the subsided land are faring better, with scrub oak, beech and birch taking a hold. Give it another 20 years.

In places you can see the successive layers of concrete that have been added to contain the channel.
Plank Lane with its BW bridgekeeper was reached after about 35 minutes, and we were waved straight through.

Plank Lane
Pennington Flash, a large expanse of water caused once again by subsidence, is now a country park, with sailing, golfing, picnic areas etc. Doesn’t look very inspiring in drizzly weather, though.

Pennington Flash
We moored just after Leigh Bridge to wait for Audrey, but somehow missed her. She’s not got a mobile phone, so we couldn’t get hold of her. We’ll probably catch up later in the week.

Leigh Bridge marks the end of the Leeds and Liverpool Leigh Branch, and the start of the Bridgewater Canal. Not much in the way of a dramatic change-over, though. You’d have thought that moving from a section of the longest artificial waterway in the country, to a section of the oldest, would have justified a little more celebration.

Leigh Bridge
Leaving Leigh, the canal continues it’s course, a lot of the time still elevated over the surrounding country. You’d have thought the views would be attractive, but I found these raised sections oddly depressing.

We passed through Astley Green with it’s mining museum, and moored just past Boothstown Basin, now occupied by Bridgewater Marina. I think we’ll stay here tomorrow, not wanting to cruise down through Sale and Stretford on a Sunday. The fishermen will be out in force, I expect. I’ll have a walk down to Worsley Delph, the entrance to the Duke of Bridgewater’s mines, which were the reason for the original cutting of the canal.

Locks none, miles 9

Last night we’d arranged to meet up with the crew of a hire boat below the 2nd lock at 9 this morning, so we were up early. Another boat had arrived overnight, and, speaking to them this morning, we decided it would be better for them to share with us, instead of the hire boat. This arrangement gave 4 people to work the locks for each locking.

So we entered the top lock at 08:20 with Paul and Cathryn on NB GREY DOG. We’d seen them around on the upper stretches of the L&L, but had never spoken. I met and had a word with the people on the hire boat, and they were fine with the new arrangement.

On down the seemingly unending run of locks, but working well together we reached the halfway point after 1¾ hours. 11 done, 10 to go!

Mags and Paul nattering while Cathryn and I do the work!
The lower 8 or 9 locks are a lot shallower, and being nearer the town, contain a lot more rubbish.

Nearing the bottom of the flight
We met the lock-keeper at Rose Bridge, wondering how to get a wheelie-bin out of the lock.
We left him to his challenge for the day, and, meeting only 1 other boat coming up, reached the bottom in just over 3½ hours. A lot faster than I expected. Working with an experienced crew who are prepared to get on makes all the difference.

Leaving the last lock on the Wigan flight. Just 2 more!
A left turn onto the Leigh Branch, then the 2 final locks at Poolstock, saw us breasted up below the lock enjoying a well earned can of beer and some buttys.

Onto the Leigh Branch. Left to Leigh and Manchester, straight ahead to Liverpool.
The last lock for quite a few miles – Poolstock No 2
Paul and Cathryn had to get on, they were meeting someone at Astley Green, so we followed more slowly, taking another hour or so to get to Dover Bridge, where we stopped for the night.

Leigh Branch, embanked above the surrounding mining subsidence.
Dover Lock Inn
The flight was not as bad as we thought it might be, though it would have been a lot harder “solo”. Still pretty tiring, though.

It’s been an indifferent day weather-wise. Grey and damp, with the occasional light drizzle.

But a good day for cobweb photos
Locks 23 (yes, 23), miles 5½

A pretty grey sort of day today. And cool too. I actually put jeans on instead of shorts this morning!

Away at around 11, no rush, we’ve got a steady 9 miles or so without locks to the edge of Wigan. It’s surprisingly rural around Chorley, as the canal skirts the town to the East.

Botany Bay Outlet Village. The building used to be British Leyland Truck and Bus.
I seem to be collecting photos of motorway bridges. This is the M61 North of Chorley.
The rest of the long pound down to Wigan is pretty countryside only interrupted briefly by Adlington.
A long line of moored boats line the way into the town, ending at White Bear Marina. Last spring we came here to have a look at a boat for sale called Jackal. Not impressed. Then had a look at a new boat for sale. Not impressed with that, either.

White Bear Marina.
When you’ve not cruised a particular waterway before, you tend to try to organise night halts based on the map, and sometimes come unstuck. So I always make notes of suitable looking spots as we go along.

Like this stretch, South of Adlington.
There are also 48 hour Visitor Moorings at Red Rock Bridge, no 63.
The pleasant cruise continues in a pretty straight line SE to Wigan Top Lock, passing Haigh Hall Country Park with its golf course on the side of the canal. Do golf balls float? Didn’t see any in the water as we went past.

Golf Course.
We needed to stop before the top lock, as we’re planning an early start tomorrow to get through the 23 locks as soon as possible. So we pulled over near Springs Bridge and I had a walk down to the locks to check out mooring opportunities. Then we moved down and stopped next to the services just at the head of the flight.

Overnight mooring and top lock.
I took Meg for a walk down the locks this evening.

Some of them ain’t ‘alf deep!
On the way back Meg stood on a wasp and was stung at least twice. She hopped back on 3 legs, feeling very sorry for herself. I think she felt a little better after I bathed her paw with cold water, though.

Sore Paw.
Locks none, miles 9½.

Nearly had a casualty last night when I took Meg out for her last walk. This little chap was sitting in the middle of the path, just waiting to be stood on.

Lucky Toad.
He disappeared off into the undergrowth after I explained the perils of jay-walking. Or should that be hopping?

A steady 1½ hour run this morning took us to the top of Johnsons Hillock Locks. This is an attractive 4 mile stretch, especially when you leave the motorway behind.

Last look at the M65, with “traffic calming” in the foreground. I’m pleased to say we’ve not found any speed bumps, unless you count the sofa in the water under a bridge yesterday…
The navigation hangs on the side of the hill, passing Withnell Fold with its 48 hour moorings near the nature reserve.

Withnell Fold Moorings
There are also good moorings a little earlier, near Riley Green Bridge.

Some very nice property in the area, too.
Johnsons Hillock is a popular spot for mooring, the Wheelton Boat Club has a good ¼ mile along the towpath, and there are more boats on the offside. 2 “short boats” made a chicane of the approach to the top lock.

Johnsons Hillock Top Lock
All the locks were in our favour so we made good time down the flight of 7, finishing them in 1½ hours.


Johnsons Hillock Bottom Lock, disused Walton Summit Branch on the left.
The Walton Summit branch intended to link up with the Lancaster Canal at Preston. This meant an expensive aqueduct carrying the canal over the River Ribble. A temporary link was made by tramway in 1803, which was never replaced by a water route in the lifetime of the branch. Hence the Lancaster Canal was never properly joined to the main network, at least not until the opening of the Ribble Link in 2002, using the Rufford Arm and the tidal rivers Douglas and Ribble.

We didn’t want to push through to Chorley today, so moored about ½ mile below the locks.
We’ve seen very few boats on the move the last few days, just 2 today.

Locks 7, miles 5.

Today started dull and misty after overnight rain.

Misty Morning
We got away at just after 10 today, heading into Blackburn. Through the centre there is evidence of regeneration, but closed factories and mills follow the pattern set since Barrowford.

Imperial Mill

Part of the regeneration is a large retail park just before the locks, and we took advantage of the Asda to stock up with a few essentials. (Milk, bread, whisky…..).
Then down the locks. Unfortunately we’d been overtaken by another boat whilst shopping, so all the locks were against us, but, even with a stop at the sanitary station part way down, we were still clear of the flight by 14:00. The locks and surroundings are tidy and well maintained, but there is unfortunately a lot of rubbish in the water, including a large quantity of oil in the second lock.

Blackburn Locks
Two of the locks are very close to bridges, so incorporate unusual opening mechanisms for the bottom gates.

Lock 54
Out of the town, we passed through the suburb called Cherry Tree (no sign of the eponymous shrub, though), and moored a little further on near bridge 92. Out in the country, but the buzz of traffic from the M65 can be heard in the distance. It follows pretty much the same route as the canal, taking advantage of the same contours the canal engineer (John Longbottom) did 200 years ago.

Locks 6, miles 7.

Another fine, dry day yesterday so we had a blitz on the inside of the boat. At one point we had all of the mats hanging on a barbed wire fence alongside the boat!

Sunday’s mooring.
The weather changed overnight, rain blew in and gave us a grey, damp start to today. We got off around 10:30, down into Clayton-Le-Moors, past the site of Moorfields Colliery. This is where, in 1883, 68 men and boys died in an explosion caused by a build-up of methane and coal-dust. The youngest was just 10 years old.
There is an industrial estate there now, but a memorial near Pilkington Bridge acts as a reminder to passers-by.

Leaving Clayton we passed the half-way point between Leeds and Liverpool.

We had 3 swing bridges to negotiate today, all simple to operate being generally for farm access. No automatic barriers and flashing lights on these!

Several disused factories line the canal in Church.
Mural as we pass into Oswaldtwistle.
The canal does a long loop around the valley of the Hyndburn Brook, which joins the Calder near Clayton. It (the canal) runs south from Clayton, west from Church, then north and west again at Rishton.

Across the valley back to Church.
Through Rishton, and another mile or so further on we pulled over for the night. We’re a couple of miles from Blackburn, here. The built up area covers around 5 miles, and with 6 locks, will take probably 4 hours to get through. Tomorrow’s task.

Locks 0, miles 7

Up early today and on the move by just after 09:00. We’d had an unsettled night, with people going past till quite late. A bit too near the outskirts of Burnley, I guess.

Into Burnley and around a couple of bends on to the “Straight Mile”. This is the ¾(?) mile long embankment that carries the canal above the town.

The Straight Mile
Made a quick stop at the 24hr Tesco near 130F, then wound our way out of the town to the M65 aqueduct and Gannow Tunnel. This M65 crossing is the first of 4 we made today as the canal loops its way around the contours of the hills.

On the M65 Aqueduct (with interested dog)
Gannow Tunnel
Out into the sunshine and back under the motorway into Rose Grove, where BW have fairly recently opened visitor moorings and a sanitary station. (they’re not in my guide, anyway).

M65 again, from below this time!
2 more ducks under the motorway to Hapton, where we stopped for solid fuel. Useful place, I got a new chimney as well. Nice people. Another couple of windey miles, approaching then turning away from the M65 twice, before mooring at a pleasant spot near Smith’s Swing bridge, with a distant view of Pendle Hill.

Night Halt
It’s been another fine day, though cloudier than yesterday.

Locks none, miles 8½.

Woke up to a very misty morning, but with a promise of a fine, bright day to come. We decided to fill with diesel at the marina before moving off, so it was nearly 11:00 before we got away.

The couple of derelict boats at Salterforth have been removed by BW. Just a heap of debris on the quay awaiting collection.

Arrived at Foulridge Tunnel at just around noon, and had a few minutes to wait before we could enter. Very wet inside, with streams of water coming out of the roof in places, but the damp had allowed some impressive flowstone sculptures to develop.

Eastern Portal of Foulridge Tunnel. The spot is the other end, 1640 yards away.
Formations in the tunnel
Out into the sunshine about 20 minutes later, and on to Barrowford and the 7 locks at the start of the long descent to Liverpool. These are some of the best kept locks, in the most attractive setting, we’ve come across. Such a pity they lead down into the mill towns of Nelson and Burnley.

Barrowford Top Lock
Barrowford Locks

All were in our favour, so it took us only about 1¼ hours to get to the bottom. On around the edge of Nelson, where we believe we were shot at by a couple of youths lurking around a corner with an air pistol. We heard the pop as the gun went off before we saw the miscreants, but there’s no damage to the boat. At that range, the pellet probably wouldn’t reach anyway.

Glassless mill. Probably that air pistol.
Glad to be clear of the town, we entered the short rural-ish bit before Burnley, and found a suitable spot to spend the night. A 5 hour day, but we’ll have a short one tomorrow.

Between Nelson and Burnley, Pendle Hill on horizon.
Along the summit level there were extensive patches of green scum on the water's surface. Is this the toxic blue-green algae we've heard about?

Locks 7, miles 9.

Stayed put as planned yesterday. Got on with a few of those little jobs that always need doing, played ball and had a couple of good walks with Meg, got wet in the heavy showers later in the day….

We were joined at our mooring by another boat, name unknown but owned by Dave who had been out, on his own, since April. He is heading back to his mooring at Fettlers Wharf, on the Rufford branch. I suggested we shared the locks at Greenberfield, making it easier for both boats.

So we were off this morning at 10:00, in convoy away from the “wiggly bits” for the last time this year.

Last view of the “Wiggly Bits”

Up to East Marton and shouted cheerio to “Santa” on NB OMAHD. He’d always greeted us as we passed in either direction. Through the cutting Mags has named “The Enchanted Forest”

Enchanted Forest

And on to Greenberfield Locks.
Up through the locks in about 45 minutes, where we parted company with Dave when he stopped for water. We carried on for another ½ hour or so around the edge of Barnoldswick, and stopped for the night near Lower Park Marina. May fill up with diesel here tomorrow.

Lower Park Marina
The forecast was for dry, sunny weather, but we woke up to showers. These cleared soon though, and the cloud broke up around lunchtime to leave a fine bright afternoon.

Locks 3, miles 5½