Following the Trent

Since we left Stoke yesterday, we’ve been following the Trent valley. But it becomes a lot more obvious as the canal swings eastwards and runs into the river’s flood plain.

At 07:00 this morning, the sun was just starting to lift the mist off the water.
We were away from our overnight mooring at around 11:00. We would have been earlier, but I got talking to a couple on another boat…..

It was another brilliant day for boating, a cool start but warming up rapidly.

On the way to Meaford.
The first landmark today was the 4 lock flight at Meaford. We were following another boat so had to fill each lock as we came to it, but even so it only took 50 minutes to drop the 32 feet.

Coming down Meaford Locks.
Then a mile later we were into Stone. This is one of our favourite canal towns on the network, only let down by a lack of moorings in the centre. Still, there are plenty of opportunities on the edges.

In Stone

The 4 locks through the town were easy to drop down, all still against us apart from Yard Lock, where one half of the Ladyline Hotel Boats was coming up. We’d already passed Lady Margaret near the old Joules brewery.



Hotel Boat Lady Selena, leaving Yard Lock.
They’re on their way to Middlewich to pick up a party who want to go to Bugsworth Basin.

The Star pub, alongside Star Lock, was busy with patrons inside and out. The tantalising smells of other people's lunches reminded me that it was time we ate, so Mags made some butties as we moved out of the town.

Star Lock and the pub
It was a treat to come through Stone in sunshine, usually it’s raining when we get here, and still raining when we leave. The town seems to attract quite a few visitors by other than boat. I had a chat with a couple from New Zealand at Newcastle Road Lock, and a group of chaps from Ireland at sampling the offerings at Star Lock.

Away from the town, the last lock of the day was at Aston, then we moved another couple of miles to moor in splendid isolation above Sandon Lock.

Just below Aston Lock another new marina is being constructed.




Due to open in October, it looks like there's quite a bit still to do...




A bit of cloud rolled in this afternoon, and with a freshening wind it got cooler. But all is still and clear again now, another cool night in the offing. We lit the fire tonight when we stopped. It’s been out since Sunday night. You’re not allowed to have a fire going in Harecastle tunnel, and we didn’t bother to relight it last night. But it was decidedly chilly in the cabin this morning. Must be getting old or something…

A poor shot of a Lapwing taken on the fly as we passed.
Locks 9, miles 7½

A tunnel, 9 locks and several ducks in a long day.

We were up early and on the water point as planned, but weren’t the only ones after an early start. By the time we’d filled the tank there were 3 boats in front of us, heading up the last 3 locks to the tunnel.

They’re pretty fast filling though, and we passed Hardings Wood Junction where the Macclesfield Canal heads off, around 09:30.

Hardings Wood Junction and Lock 42, the last on the climb up to the potteries.

The Macclesfield leaves the Trent and Mersey in an unusual way. It branches off to the south, runs parallel back along the line of the T & M, before crossing it at Pooles Aqueduct and heading on it’s northerly route. It’s able to cross over as it has been routed past the last 2 locks coming up on the T & M, giving it around 20’ difference in height at the aqueduct.
I don’t know why it was built this way. It obviously makes sense to leave the earlier canal at it's summit level, but it also would have been simpler to just head north straight away. The first couple of miles, to the stop lock at Hall Green, were actually built by the Trent and Mersey Canal Company, and there is a wharf on this section, just before the aqueduct. Maybe this is a clue to the convoluted route?

We arrived at the tunnel at 09:40 and were invited to go straight in by the attendant BW tunnel keeper. A very pleasant chap, in contrast to the bloke on duty when we last came this way, and who got quite upset when I took too long to untie after he gave us the go-ahead.

Harecastle Tunnel.
Last week I was speaking to the crew of a hire boat doing the Four Counties Ring, and who intended to overnight at the north portal. I advised them that it has a bad reputation as a hang-out for the local hoolies. Even without the reputation, it’s a pretty grim place, not one I’d choose for a night stop.

Anyway we were through in our usual 40 minutes or so. Around 2½ mph. The sun was blazing down as we popped out of the southern end, and thanked the BW resident there.

Out of the tunnel
The trip through the northern suburbs of the City of Stoke on Trent went without incident. But we arrived at Etruria, and the junction with the Caldon Canal, to find a queue of boats. Etruria Lock, at ‘ deep is slow to fill anyway, but with one of the top ground paddles out of action, the water seemed to inch up the sides.

Still, the enforced wait gave us the chance to get a good picture of the Mandarin duck that’s been hanging around here for a while.

Misplaced MandarinLooks a bit too exotic for Stoke on Trent!

From here it was a steady run through the Stoke Locks, going downhill now towards the Trent valley. The last lock, Stoke Bottom Lock, was completely rebuilt in concrete, and is another deep, slow lock to use.

Stoke Bottom Lock
But from here we started to leave the built up area behind, heading out into the country before reaching Trentham and the last lock of the day.

Leaving Trentham Lock
There are 2 new duck families in the stretch above the lock
We pulled in a couple of hundred yards past Oldroyd Bridge, near the Wedgewood factory. The works was under threat of closure a few months ago, but has been bought by an American company. They’ll give no guarantees as to the future, though.

Locks 9, miles 11½

Summer, or am I speaking too soon…

It’s been a glorious weekend, warm and sunny. We’ve taken advantage of the good weather by me having a couple of good runs, and Meg and I doing some long walks. The footpaths around here are good, a lot of grazing land (unoccupied) and arable fields, with the routes well marked.

The towpaths have inevitably been busy, dog walkers, cyclists, and just about anyone who wanted to enjoy the first properly warm days of the year.

We actually moved a bit today, to just below the Red Bull maintenance yard. It’s a handy jumping-off point for Harecastle Tunnel and Stoke tomorrow.

Coming up Lock 44, with NB Talisman IV in the adjacent chamber.
Mum and her 13 ducklings came out to greet us as we moored.

We’ll get off early, fill with water and empty the unmentionables, then we’ve 3 more locks and about a mile to the tunnel entrance. With a bit of luck we’ll be through before 10:00, and heading into Stoke with the downhill stretch ahead.

Locks 3, miles ¾

An Inspiration

I was out on the towpath this morning in the sunshine with Meg when a guy came jogging along. Not unusual, I hear you say. True. But he stopped for a chat, having seen the Liverpool ½ marathon T shirt I was wearing. As you do, I asked him how far he was going. “London” was the reply. “No” I said, “how far are you running now, not what are you training for” His reply left me speechless for a moment. He’s running from Altrincham, Cheshire, to London, then doing the London Marathon next Sunday. Wow. That’s a big challenge, around 180 miles without the last 26.2 in the capital.

His name is Charlie Pearson, and his route is mainly along canals. He’s on the Trent and Mersey till Fradley, then the Coventry to Hawkesbury Junction, the North Oxford to Braunston then the final leg south on the Grand Union main line.

So if you’re anywhere on these canals in the next week, keep an eye out and give him a wave. I’m sure he’d appreciate it. And if you feel you want to give some more concrete encouragement, he’s got a page on Justgiving.com to raise money for the Brain and Spine Foundation.

More background here, donation website here.

Makes my efforts look a little puny, really.

Uphill to Church Lawton.

We were idle yesterday, and stayed put rather than face the still brisk breeze. Showers were forecast all day as well, but we should have learned by now to take no notice of the weatherman; we did have a drop of rain, but nothing of any consequence.

It was cool but bright as we got away this morning, into the first lock after 10 minutes.

Lock 58 and the M6 behind.

We were following another boat for a bit, so had to reset the locks, but after a while we had boats coming down, so the going was easier.

I even had time for a brew while Lock 56 was filling!
Not far from Chell’s aqueduct there’s another very young duck family. Seven this time.
The locks on this section were duplicated to ease congestion, and most of those climbed today had both chambers available.
But some are beyond reinstatement.

Lock 54 near Thurlwood. The right hand chamber has long since been filled in.
Lock 47, southern chamber.



Church Locks are the last 2 we climbed today. We met NB Pavo coming down, and swapped locks with him.

Church Locks.
There was no-one else on the moorings at Church Lawton when we arrived, but I suppose it was a little early for most folk to finish for the day. It was only just after midday.
I always enjoy this section of the Trent and Mersey. The locks are often close enough to walk between to stretch your legs, but then there are a couple of 10 or 15 minute long pounds where you can catch a quick cup of tea. And the canal rises through a mixture of open farmland, wooded bits and canalside properties. The locks are easy to use, especially now since some gates were replaced during the winter stoppages.

The overcast start led to a warm sunny afternoon. I made a couple of fender hangers to replace my earlier attempt.

The first ones were made from a beech plank, and split along the grain when stressed. The new ones are ¾” ply, so won’t have the same problem.

New fender hooks. One of the old ones, split, is in the middle.
These hang off the roof rail when needed, and can be positioned where required.

Following the oil spill in the Lower Peak forest Canal earlier in the year, I see we’ve another pollution incident in the Shropshire Union, at the southern end. The stretch that appears to be affected is nearly 8 miles long, the distance between the locks at Autherley and Wheaton Aston. The EA haven’t closed the navigation, as yet.

From Waterscape's email alerts -

Advice Notice - Pollution incident at Autherly[sic] Junction Stop Lock to Wheaton Aston Lock, Friday 17 April 2009 until further notice

As the result of a contaminate entering the water course at the above location there has been a significant fish kill along this length of waterway. British Waterways staff are working with the Environment Agency and Severn Trent Water Authority to establish the source of the contamination. Staff will be working through out the weekend on the clean up of dead fish stock and to prevent the pollution from spreading further. At the present time there are no restrictions to navigation but there may be limited short term restrictions during the clean up operation.
We apologies for any inconvenience caused by this work and ask for your continued cooperation during this operation.

Enquiries: 01606 723800

More stoppages on this waterway: http://www.waterscape.com/canals-and-rivers/shropshire-union-canal/boating/stoppages

You can find all stoppages at the url below: http://www.waterscape.com/things-to-do/boating/stoppages

Locks 12, miles 3½

Steadily up to Hassall Green.

We stayed at Wheelock yesterday. The weather looked a bit dodgy in the morning, although in fact it turned out OK. It was pretty busy with boats up and down, a mixture of private and hire boats. The moorings were nearly empty at noon, but filled up again later in the afternoon.

I was out on my morning run today, heading back along the towpath in a heavy shower, when I saw a Black Prince hire boat coming the other way. Normally the rear deck is full of crew on these boats, chatting and watching the world go by. Not this morning in a downpour. The steerer was huddled up in a jacket and hat, long shorts and sandals. And looking pretty miserable as he squinted into the wind and rain.
The boat’s windows were all misted up, with the odd wiped circle and a face showing.
Ah, the joys of a UK canal boat holiday….

The thundery showers passed over by late morning, and it took us that long to get going. After my run, shower and breakfast, it was up to the shop for papers and milk, then across to the pet food shop to top up Meg’s supplies. Then reverse around a couple of boats onto the services to top off the water tank, and empty a loo and the rubbish.

While all this was going on, a steady convoy of boats sailed past, heading for the first lock of the Cheshire Locks, just a ¼ mile up the canal. By the time we got there we joined a queue of 4 boats.

Queuing at Lock 66
This is the first of the 26 locks, sometimes called “Heartbreak Hill”, which lifts the navigation 250 feet from the Cheshire plain to the summit level at Harecastle Tunnel. Most of these were duplicated to ease congestion, but of today’s 8, only 3 had both chambers in use.

Into Lock 66 at Wheelock, ¾ of an hour later.

Repairs are ongoing at Lock 64 near Malkins Bank
Upper ground paddle and culvert, exposed now the lock has been emptied.
Lock 63, the first of the “in use” paired locks, at Malkins bank. The canal workers cottages are in the background.


Over the last couple of hundred years, subsidence has caused distortion of some of the deep lock chambers.
At Lock 62, there’s an instruction on the southerly lock advising boats broader than 6’10” to use the other lock.

The problem is, the other lock is temporarily out of use!

Maybe I should explain. Narrowboats were originally built to a 7 foot beam standard. And a lot of the surviving workboats have suffered that common problem of getting older, spreading a bit in the middle. So they can be a tight fit in a chamber that has “slumped” a little.
All boats built recently are made to 6’10” to solve the problem. So size does matter… Andrew Denny has a post here, relating to this issue.

Oh, and he's currently reviewing Steve Haywood's rewritten "Fruit Flies Like a Banana", now renamed "One Man and a Narrowboat". This is one of the classic canal travel books. Steve Haywood also writes in Canal Boat magazine.

(Andy, did I get there first?)

We were following the queue up the flight, so I had to empty each lock as we arrived before we could use it. We only saw one other boat on the way down, and we left a lock ready for them rather than the other way round. Until we got to Lock 59. Both of the locks had boats in, coming down. Just like buses, you don’t see one for hours then 2 arrive together! It was a bit like the Grand National start as the bottom gates of both chambers opened at the same time and the boats started to move out.

And they’re off!
Ok, maybe I’m stretching the comparison a bit there…

Off they go down the back straight. Viking afloat takes an early lead from the private boat. Both chambers are in use at the next lock, but they’ll have to race to be first at the single lock after that…
We moored up on the pound between L59 and L58. We often stop here, breaking the flight up into 3 with another stop at Church Lawton. That might wait until Friday though. The forecast is for rain all day tomorrow. Still, we’ll see.

After the showers cleared through this morning, it’s been fine and dry, even warm out of the wind. But the wind has been steadily rising and was gusting strongly when we pulled in.

Locks 8, miles 1½.

Back on the good old Trent and Mersey.

We stayed where we were for the weekend. There was quite a bit of traffic coming and going so we thought we’d keep out of the way. Just chilled really. The weather was warm enough to sit out, and Meg and I had a couple of good walks.
Walking around here, you’re never very far from the River Weaver.

It’s just down on the left.
There it is…
A better panorama from the mooring, with the sun out and behind the lens.
We were away fairly early today, around 09:00. The last couple of days have started out cool but sunny after frost, but today was cool and misty.

Off we go…
We had to wait behind one boat at Stanthorne Lock, but that was the only delay we had today. We wouldn’t have needed to do that if I hadn’t let him past. He pulled off the mooring just behind us, and was riding our stern, obviously in a hurry. So I waved him through.

Down to Wardle Lock at the junction and a boat was just leaving as we arrived, so we dropped down, back onto the Trent and Mersey. Mags executed a faultless right hander, and into Kings Lock which I’d set ready.

Back on the T and M, Kings Lock.
It was plain sailing from here, all but one of the locks set in our favour with boats heading in the opposite direction. It’s not as busy as I thought it would be, though.

What a poser! Me on the tiller, taken by Mags.
Out of Middlewich, near Elton Moss, brine extraction over the years has resulted in a lot of subsidence. The banks of the canal have repeatedly been built up to keep the water in.

The different layers of concrete are clearly visible in places.

You’d expect the canal to be deep here, but it’s actually very shallow, making negotiating some of the sharp turns a bit of a struggle.

There’s a very upmarket duck house at the bottom of a garden in Wheelock.

Not sure about the neighbours, though. Swans can be pretty territorial at this time of year!Read James and Amy about the Mr Asbo, the swan near Cambridge.

We stopped on the water point at Wheelock, filled and emptied as required, then moved 100 yards along to moor on the visitor mooring. I’ve got to visit the pet food superstore in the morning to get the dog food I forgot to order from Tesco.

The day finally brightened, and it’s warm and sunny now. Still a bit of a breeze, though, making it cooler than the last couple of days.

I think Vodaphone have been doing some work on extending their coverage. I’ve been able to get a 3G internet connection every night since we left the Shroppie last week. I don’t remember being able to do that before!

Mags is mad for ABBA, (it’s cool now, apparently) and there was 4 hours of documentary and a film on C5 last night. So we recorded it. The DVD player/recorder we have is not very energy efficient, and we had low batteries this morning. I’ll have to run the engine so she can watch the playback!

Locks 7, miles 9

A short cruise to a scenic view.

We stayed put yesterday after Nick and Jackie had left for Middlewich. We’d a few odds and ends to do. The wind had switched overnight, when we arrived it was blowing us off the mooring, but by morning it was blowing us on.
This made for a few near misses, as boats passed us struggling to maintain a straight course. And there were an awful lot of boats about.

We’d stayed for 2 nights on a 48 hour mooring, so decided to pull pins and move a bit nearer to Middlewich. After discussing options, we chose to keep out of the town, staying reasonably close, but on this side. That way I can get in for a bit of shopping tomorrow, but the towpath shouldn’t be so busy.
So we just made a short trip to the moorings between bridges 21 and 22. We’d looked at this spot before, thinking it would be good here, but never actually stopped. We certainly will in future. It’s a fine mooring, with beautiful views across Winsford Top Flash to the west.

We crossed the River Weaver again today, as it winds it way generally northwards.
Wood Anemone and (I think) Marsh Marigolds on the aqueduct embankment Panorama looking west from the boat. 3 Photos stitched together using Autostitch
It seems busier still today, but I suppose the Easter weekend has begun in earnest. We’re tied to rings here, and I’ve put springs and breast ropes on, so the passing traffic isn’t disturbing us at all.

We got a loaf of bread made, and a load of washing done while we had the engine running.

Locks 0, miles 3½

Back onto narrow canals, and a parting of the ways.

We had a really pleasant trip yesterday. A bit blowey, but we shared the locks up to Barbridge with Nick and Jackie on Gloriana. Gave us a chance to get to know them a bit better. A really nice couple.

There were a lot of boats about, once again mainly headed towards Chester. One unfortunate crew on a hire boat out of Anderton had got the rudder caught on the cill at Tilstone Lock. It had lifted out of the cup on the skeg, then bent at a 20° angle. I don’t think it’ll be going anywhere under it’s own steam, at least not in straight lines! And I’m sure that Anderton Marina will not be happy bunnies, having a boat needing a dry dock at this point in the season. No photo, I didn’t want to compound their misery!

There was even a working workboat on the move near Calverley, as distinct from those restored heritage boats heading for Ellesmere Port.

And this chap on the slipway at the Calverley BW yard. You're supposed to use a trailer...
The hire boats would be just about at the limit of their outward journey, most having started out on Saturday afternoon. We met boats that were heading back to Anderton on the Trent and Mersey, and Chirk on the Llangollen.

We filled with diesel at the Anglo Welsh base at the bottom of Bunbury Staircase Locks. I went in to the shop to sort out the paperwork while Mags took Seyella in alongside Gloriana. By the time I came out, both boats were almost at the top of the staircase, so I did quite well there. Well done Jackie!

At Barbridge we caught up with Gloriana again. We’d been left behind at Calverley when we stopped at the BW services there. With narrow locks from here to Middlewich, we only had a chance for a short chat while waiting for each lock, before they were on their way again.

Middlewich Branch
Good to be back on narrow locks. Church Minshull Lock.
We pulled over on the SUCS moorings not far past the new Aqueduct Marina.

The Society has been busy, they’ve opened up another mooring just this side of Venetian Marina, on the straight between the railway and bridge 6.

New mooring looks like a pleasant spot.
It was dry, so I took the opportunity to saw and chop up the last of our logs.

Last of the Summer Wine Winter Wood
Nick and Jackie are moving on today, and heading north at Middlewich, while we’re taking a day off then heading south. So we shared a farewell bottle last night, and had a great evening taking boats, boating and boaters.

I had some mail to post this morning, so walked over to Church Minshull. It was here that Tom Rolt spent a few weeks, in 1939, as described in his classic book "Narrow Boat". He’d be disappointed with the village now. Very much a traditionalist, he wrote about the blacksmith and wheelwright’s workshop, the Post Office, and the working water mill. All closed now. Even the pub, The Badger, is shuttered with a “To Let” sign outside, another victim of the downturn in trade.

I just got back in time to say cheerio to Gloriana. We’ll definitely keep in touch, and will meet up again some time in the future.

Nick and Jackie
It was shear luck that we met at all. If Nick hadn’t set off from Tower wharf in Chester at the same time as us, so we could share Northgate Locks, we’d never have got to know this lovely couple and their friendly dog, Casper. That’s the way it is on the cut.

Partings. I think Nick’s trying to tell me something. Oh yes, the website for LED lights
Locks 7, miles 9