Through the Gap…

North of Bradford and west of Leeds the River Aire valley passes through a dip between high moorland to the north and south. Still clinging to the valley side the canal shares this pass, as do roads and railway. Tonight we’re moored in the gut of the pass, squeezed between Bingley and Cottingley.

Today has been a marked contrast to yesterday. After a very mild night with a few showers it’s been fine and dry, at least up until I took Meg for a walk later this afternoon.

Our mooring last night, looking back at Field 3 Locks.

A splash of autumn colour…

We had four swing bridges to do today, the first 15 minutes up the canal and carrying a track.

Cobbles rise up the hill…

…And Mags passes through the bridge. 

Oddies Swing Bridge was passed without incident, then we arrived at Dock Swing Bridge.
This one is a break from the norm, it’s on an access road so there are barriers to lower. These are released by the old BW Watermate key. Then the windlass comes into play, first to withdraw the wedges that support the closed span, then to open the bridge deck.

Just after Dock Bridge the junction with the long-defunct Bradford Canal is passed on the left.

The Bradford Canal opened in 1774, built at the same time as the Leeds and Liverpool. Initially successful, it suffered from the development of the city, new housing dumping sewage and waste water into the canal. Water was also an issue, with upstream mills diverting some of the supply. The condition of the canal became so bad that it was declared a public health hazard and closed in 1866. Under new management it re-opened in 1872. But a lot of trade had been lost to the railways in the intervening period, and the route was barely profitable. A major problem was the high cost of running the canal. With a barely adequate (but cleaner) water supply, the company had to build steam pumping stations at each lock to return water to the higher level. Ultimately the canal started to lose money and an Act of Abandonment was passed in June 1922. Much of the line has now been filled in and built upon. 

The canal passes through Shipley and Saltaire, the transition unnoticable.

A fine restored mill in Shipley (I think) 

Ah, firmer ground now. Definitely Saltaire, that’s Titus Salt’s New Mill on the right.



Just out of Saltaire we came to the first lock of the day, Hirst Lock. And also the first queue for several weeks!

Two Shires, one of the JAMES Project community boats, had arrived just ahead of us. A modified Leeds and Liverpool Short Boat, it took up the lock chamber so we couldn’t share.

Behind Two Shires at Hirst Lock

They had a small party of youths on board, and just went up the lock, turned around and came back down. So we had a brew while we waited for them to leave the lock in our favour.

Another boat wash in Hirst Lock

I don’t think the fore-end has ever been so clean!

We’re into Dowley Gap now, crossing the River Aire on a seven-arch stone aqueduct just below Dowley Gap Locks.

Seven-Arch Aqueduct

The canal towpath swaps sides at the other end of the aqueduct, crossing over Dowley Gap Changeline Bridge. Up here these bridges are called “changeline”, elsewhere they’ll be known as snake or roving bridges. Whatever the name, they’re designed such that the boat horse can swap sides without having to unhitch the tow.

Dowley Gap 2 Locks

That unusual gate paddle gear again. Out of action, unfortunately.

A beautiful afternoon…

We moored up just through the next bridge. There are bollards outside the Fisherman’s Rest, but we tied to the piling a little way further on.

The fluffy stuff is Meg having her “I’ve arrived” roll. It’s her version of The Pope kissing the ground when he steps off an aircraft…

We went for a walk down along the river later in the afternoon…

The aqueduct from the riverside



This boat had turned up during the afternoon.
It started life as one of those fully enclosed life-boats. But a lot of work has gone into making it pretty unique…

Bingley 3-rise and 5-rise Locks tomorrow will take us up to the long Skipton pound. No more locks till Gargrave, but there’s plenty of swing bridges…

Locks 3, miles 4½

Ah, Autumn…

…Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness. Or at least it was. Now it’s the season of damp and humid sogginess…
Certainly a change for the worse, but I suppose we’ve been spoilt by the pleasant but all-too brief Indian Summer.
Yesterday was OK, not much in the way of sun, but at least it stayed dry. The Countryfile forecast was right for today, though. A little rain in the early hours, a foretaste of things to come.

It came on properly about 08:30, just as Meg and I set off for our morning stroll. And from then until about 1 o’clock it was fairly continuous, sometimes no more than drizzle, other times quiet heavy.

No rush to get going…

It seemed to be easing off around half-ten so we decided to give it a go.

Gloomy as we head off.

We had two swing bridges to pass before the triple staircase Field Locks, the first just 10 minutes away, the second giving access to a large sewage treatment plant sandwiched between the canal and river.

Sewage Works Strangford Swing Bridge

Shortly after this we arrived at the staircase locks. I was hoping but not expecting to see a lockie or two on duty; my expectations were met so I set them up by emptying the bottom chamber and filling the top. The middle was already full.

Mags in the bottom chamber, taken from the top.
I didn’t get much in the way of pictures, the rain had started again…

Instructions at the top.

The complementary sign is at the bottom.

We decided to call it a (short) day above the locks. The rain was steady and looked to be set in for the afternoon. So we put the kettle on, put up the dish (TV on the aerial is non-existent here) and had lunch while watching the news. Of course, as soon as we’d got nicely settled the rain stopped… We did toy with the idea of pulling pins again, but in the end inertia set in.

I think the rest of the week is pretty much the same, so we’ll have to play it by ear.

Locks 3, miles 1¼

Even Less!

If yesterday was not a lot, today was very little! I’d decided that it would be a nice spot to stop just above Dobson’s staircase locks, and that’s where we finished up.

I was just untying, Mags was on the tiller, when a chap shouted across the canal – “Are you going through the bridge?” When I told him yes he offered to do it for us. What a pleasant man. He’s from the marina, apparently.

I stayed off anyway, it’s one of those half-and-half bridges; swung under power but with manually operated road barriers.

Here comes Mags…

The 2-rise staircase is only a couple of hundred yards above the bridge.

In the lower chamber…

…it leaks a lot!

The cratch cover got a good wash!

Mags often attracts a crowd…

We made use of the sanitary station above the locks, then pulled in just 50 yards further on. It’s nice and open here, and it should be quiet tonight, although there’s a lot of cycle and foot traffic during the day.
There are a couple of circular walks from the village along the towpath, and a tea-rooms at a farm just up a bit. But it’ll do for tomorrow.

Opposite is a small group of horses. I guess flies must be a problem for them…

… the latest fashion in fly-repellent head-gear!

And last year’s more understated styles.

Now, I’m not a big rugby fan, but I’ve heard that tonight’s match is pretty important?

So - COME ON ENGLAND!!!

Locks 2, miles ½

Hi Mike. I guess he’s not using it any more. It was chained up in the open position yesterday.
Hiya Carol. I’ve got one on order. I’ll let you know how it performs…

Not a lot…

After yesterday’s busy trip we decided not to do much today. In fact we toyed with the idea of staying over at Rodley, but in the end the beautiful sunny day beckoned…
But it was nearly mid-day when I swung Rodley Bridge open for Mags to pass. Just the other side of the bridge was a boat with an unusual colour scheme..

You don’t see too many white narrowboats…
It wasn’t just the colour that roused the interest, we inspected this boat way back in 2006 when we were looking to get on the water. It’s not been painted since. Then it was at Red Bull Basin near Hardings Wood Junction on the Trent and Mersey.

We had three of those swing bridges to deal with before our planned stop at Apperley Bridge. The first was at Rodley, the second a little further on, Owl, and the third was Calverley Lodge.

Owl Swing Bridge

The last one we expected to do was already open, officially so I guess as it was chained back.

Calverley Lodge Swing Bridge

The canal has risen up above the Aire valley now, cut into the rising ground on the south of the river.
It alternately crosses open, rolling pastures, and sections of woodland.



The difference in temperature between the sunny and shady sections was very noticeable.

I think that’s a bit of Bradford…

Every so often there’s a ramp to allow errant boat horses to climb back out of the canal…
…Meg likes these too when we’re walking!

Apperley Bridge seems to be spreading it’s boundaries, new housing springing up around the edges.

Some is nicely in keeping with the canal environment.

We stopped at Apperley Bridge Marina for a gas bottle and some loo-blue, then moved around the corner to moor just before the next swing bridge.

I counted them up today. There are 52 on the main line and a further 6 on the Rufford Branch. Then there’s the lift bridge at Plank Lane. We won’t be passing all 52, by turning off onto the Leigh Branch at Wigan we’ll miss the last half-dozen. Shame.

The L&L is also the longest continuous canal in England. By continuous I mean built by one company. The Grand Union from London to Birmingham is longer by 10 miles but is an amalgam of different canals built at different times by different canal companies.
The Leeds and Liverpool also sports several broad staircase locks, the most famous of which is the Bingley Five Rise. We’ll be there next week…


I’ve recently been looking at my mobile wifi. I’ve a contract with 3, and the wireless modem is a Huawei 5573, capable of 4G or LTE speeds. It has two TS9 antenna ports, and I’d plugged my roof antenna into one, but with no speed benefit.


It turns out that to get the full benefit of the MIMO technology of LTE you need to use both, each from separate aerials. But one solution is a unit incorporating two antennae in one case. Each antenna has it’s own cable. One such is the Simplytech Omni, available from ebay. I think I’ll give it a go… There’s an excellent article on the subject here.

Tomorrow I think we’ll move out to find a rural mooring for the weekend.

Locks 0, miles 2½

Up, up out of Leeds.

We had a great day yesterday. Arthur and Wendy drove across from York and helped support the city’s finances by parking on the multi-story car-park near the Royal Armouries, then we three headed into the museum for a look around. Mags wasn’t interested so stayed on board with Meg.
The museum is well worth a visit, a fascinating insight into the development of ways in which we can kill and maim each other! And ways in which damage can be avoided…
It’s limited it’s exhibits to small arms, the largest item is probably the armoured coat designed for an elephant.
Throughout the day there are informal talks by staff members on various subjects.
And best of all it’s free!
I didn’t take any pictures, go and look at the website for a flavour.

We had free power too for most of our stay. Someone had kindly left 40p credit on the meter!

So, with a bit of a hike to do today we were on our way at half past nine.

A mortar menaces the entrance to Clarence Dock.

Out on the river again and under Crown Point Bridge

We’d just ¾ of a mile on the river before leaving it for the Leeds and Liverpool Canal.

Leeds waterfront, Leeds Bridge in the distance.

Leeds Bridge carries the city coat of arms.

The sheep represents the wool trade, upon which the city was built. Three stars are from the coat of arms of Sir Thomas Danby, the first Mayor of Leeds; the three owls come from the coat of arms of Sir John Saville, the first Alderman. The Latin motto reads “For King and Law”



Victoria Bridge is the last crossing before the river is left behind, River Lock is visible beyond

The yellow boat is the water taxi which runs between Clarence Dock and River Lock. Twelve hours a day…

This area of the city, at the start (end?) of the canal is being developed at a rapid pace. New apartment blocks have appeared along the canal between River Lock and Office Lock, replacing the demolition and building site we saw when we last came this way.

At River Lock we also come across the first examples of the paddle gear typical of the L&L.

Gate paddle – “clough”

Vertical screw operated ground paddleOne of the annoying handcuff locks can also be seen. 

Mags in Office Lock

The locks come steadily as the canal clings to the south bank of the Aire. We’ll be following the river valley almost all the way to the summit level, to the west of Gargrave.

We’re not going that far…

We’re starting to leave the city behind at Spring Garden Lock

There’s a 2 mile pound above Spring Garden, ending at Kirkstall Lock. At Kirkstall village there are moorings for those who want to split the climb up to Rodley, but they’re a bit gloomy. A supermarket is just up the hill, though.


Boats!
In fact we passed three today! It’s pretty quiet up here.

The remains of Kirkstall Abbey is just visible across the valley from Kirkstall Lock
The Abbey became another victim of Henry VIII’s need for ready cash in 1539 during The Dissolution.

We’d already dealt with the two-rise staircase locks at Oddy’s, but now we had the pair of three-rise staircases of Forge and Newlay coming up.

Approaching Forge 3.
We were waved in by the lockie. Unsought and unasked for, but these two staircases are manned. I suppose there’s too much that can go wrong…

It’s a long way down… and quite wet if you’re going the other way.



Mags looked after the tiller on this set, but she was starting to feel the strain so I stayed aboard for Newlay 3.

Tiller-eye view

Looking back

No more locks for a bit once we’d got up these, but now we start with the swing bridges…

Ross Mill Swing Bridge, the first of many.

The canal was built to a budget, so swing bridges were installed instead of more expensive fixed bridges. There’s a lot of them, too.

The Gnomes of Dulwich Rodley

Today’s journey’s end, Rodley Visitor Moorings.

Once again, a cool start has turned into a beautiful sunny day.

Just a short trip tomorrow, up to Apperley bridge.

Locks 13, miles 6