Summer’s back as we return to the Old West River.

We’ve had a fine day today, a gentle breeze, blue skies and warm sunshine.

We left the GOBA moorings on Noble’s Field at around half past ten, it took a bit of a shove to get the stern in deep water again. After the rain on Monday afternoon the river must have been up a couple of inches, and it’s gone down again overnight, leaving us sat on the mud.

Leaving Noble’s Field

We passed through St. Ives without stopping, under the medieval town bridge.


Looking back, it’s clear to see that the two southern arches (one is hidden) are different in design. During the Civil War Oliver Cromwell had these blown up to prevent King Charles’ troops advancing on London from Lincolnshire. They were initially replaced by a drawbridge before a more permanent solution, only with rounded instead of Gothic arches, was constructed.

St. Ives Lock is still dodgy, I think it’s something to do with the guillotine mechanism. So it’s staffed, making passage a doddle.

In St. Ives Lock

Well I think it looks like a chicken!

A pair of oyster catchers.
Inappropriately named, I’d suggest. They’ll not find many oysters there… And I daresay that they’ll eat them given the opportunity, but surely they don’t take much catching?

In the bright sunshine the damselflies and dragonflies where flitting about above the lily pads, looking for somewhere to deposit a load of eggs. One took a breather on our roof…

We had a rare treat when we arrived at the top of Brownshill Lock. A seal! We first spotted him in the lock chamber, then he surfaced just 20 feet away, took a look and dived again. Far too quick for the camera. We waited for him to come up for air, camera poised… and waited… and waited. Finally, 200 yards upstream against the reeds, a shiny hump broke the surface.

You’ll have to take my word for it, that’s a seal!

The lock was open ready for us, so we quickly dropped down onto the short tideway section to Hemitage Lock.

Leaving Brownshill Lock and Staunch, and Sammy the Seal
The seal is above the lock, so must have gone up with a boat at some point.

Cormorant wing drying

The Old Bedford River, with barrier and sluice gates.

New Bedford River, navigable on the tide 20½ miles to Denver, then another 12 or 13 to King’s Lynn and the alternative access to the Wash

Hermitage Lock.
I thought we’d miss the lock, the lockie was due to break for lunch at 1 o’clock. But a boat had just left and he saw us coming so he kindly dropped us down the 18 inches to the Old West River before knocking off.

The lock’s name comes from the 15th century. At that time the Bishops of Ely were responsible for a causeway and bridge here, and employed a hermit to look after them. The old Hermitage has long gone, as has the hermit. The EA employ the modern day equivalent…

We stopped for a bite to eat on the visitor mooring below the lock before pushing on the last 3 miles to Aldreth Bridge and what Mags calls “Dobbin’s moorings”.

Flat Bridge needs a little TLC

Mum herding the nippers away from the hairy predator on the back deck of the passing boat. No, not me, Meg!

There was one boat here when we arrived, but we’ve since been joined by a couple of cruisers.
 

Dobbin was no-where to be seen, but Meg and I found him up at the gate near Aldreth Bridge. If he’s around in the morning there’s an apple with his name on it. Not till then though, I don’t want him hanging around all night!

Locks 3, miles 10.

Heading back downstream.

One of the problems with doing an out and back route is that it’s difficult to find different things to talk about or even take pictures of. At least there’s one thing that’s ever changing, even if you stay in the same place – the weather. Today started cool and cloudy, and has finished up bright and sunny. Even that pesky wind has dropped.

We were away about 10 o’clock, doing a U turn at the end of the backwater and onto the main channel above Godmanchester Lock.

Mags waiting as I set the lock.

The protocol on the Great Ouse is to leave the gates or guillotine open when you leave the lock. It paid off for us on the way upstream, most of the locks were open at the bottom, ready for us to use. Today has been a different story. All three had to be turned, which involved closing the bottom gates (in one case the slackers (paddles) too) then going through the slow procedure of raising the guillotine to fill the lock before we could use it. Shouldn’t complain though, swings and roundabouts I guess.

I meant to mention yesterday that heading up to this lock I thought I’d taken the wrong channel. From the broad deep river at Huntingdon it suddenly shrank, became very overgrown and shallowed considerably.

Below Godmanchester Lock.

The answer lies to the east, towards Godmanchester. The flat land has allowed the water to spread in a network of shallow streams, apart from the lock cut there are no less than four alternative routes for the water to take, all falling over fixed weirs or adjustable sluices.

Through Huntingdon Old Bridge again

There’s a view I didn’t catch on the way up, Hartford church peeking above the trees.

Cormorants are a bit camera shy…

Houghton Lock was next, followed by the short reach past the Hemingfords.

A swan playing chicken…

We caught up with this chap, taking his young daughter for a trip on the water.
I was pleased to see the child wearing a life-jacket, but it would have been a good idea if Dad did, too.

Another view of St. James, Hemingford Grey

Our last lock was Hemingford, then there was just a mile or so before we pulled in on Noble’s Field, just outside of St. Ives.

Twin churches at St. Ives over Hemingford Meadows

Tomorrow we’ll descend the last three locks this side of Denver, mooring somewhere above Pope’s Corner. Not sure where, yet.

The river is busy with racing shells this evening, they kick up more wash than the narrowboats!

Hi Sue, yes I went down the backwater to take a look later in the evening. Loads of space to turn around, and some pleasant moorings there closer to the town.

Steve, Angela – we may review our plans, then, in the light of what you’ve said. Thanks for the advice.

Locks 3, miles 6

Time for a U-turn

After the weekend on the splendid moorings at Hemingford Grey, we decided on one more day heading upstream before turning around.

The Hemingfords, Grey and Abbots, are delightful villages. Between them they must keep the local thatcher busy…

St.James, Hemingford Grey, with the cropped steeple.

They were one settlement in Anglo-Saxon times, established as “Hemma’s Ford” at a crossing on the river. It was split into two parishes in the 9th century, the western part falling under the control of Ramsey Abbey. In 1140 Payn of Hemingford built the Manor House on land near the river, claimed to be the oldest occupied private house in the country.

The Manor House and Gardens, H - Grey
The house and gardens are open to the public, for a fee.

In the picturesque stakes, though, Hemingford Abbots must take the prize, especially the Axe and Compass pub.


Animal figures on the ridge were thought to ward off evil spirits, now they’re more the thatcher’s signature.

And yet more thatch

If it wasn’t for the tarmac, white lines and cars you could be forgiven for thinking Elizabeth I was on the throne…

That wind is back, making the day cool even though we had good spells of sunshine this morning.

We were away at around 10, passing Hemingford Abbots set amongst the trees.
The church, St. Margaret of Antioch, dates from the late 1400s, making it nearly 200 years younger than St. James in the neighbouring village. But it’s still got it’s steeple. Is there such a thing as “spire envy” I wonder…

About 20 minutes from the moorings we came to Houghton Lock, open for us as a boat had just passed.

Houghton Lock
I‘m getting used to these oddball locks with a guillotine gate at one end.

Just above the lock we pulled in to Hartford Marina, in need of water and elsan disposal. Both were provided with a donation to the RNLI, so I bought a container of loo blue as well. Nice people.

A huge expanse of water, Hartford Marina.

The floating lodges are mobile homes on rafts…

With tanks replenished or emptied as required we continued on along the broad river to Huntingdon.

The river at Huntingdon is crossed by three bridges, the medieval stone one dating from around 1332, the modern concrete one from 1975 and a more recent footbridge just upstream of the older one.

Huntingdon Bridge(s)


Until the opening of the 1975 bridge all the busy A14 traffic had to cross the 600 year old span, a tribute to the quality of it’s construction considering it was built to carry horses and carts.

Just downstream of the Old Bridge, Riverside Mill, now apartments, was built in the mid-19th century to produce animal feeds. Before closure in 1975 it had been used as a hosiery mill. A small studio apartment in the building, with less floor space than our boat, recently sold for £72,000. Leasehold.

It’s a shame money hasn’t been invested in this sad looking property…
I feel a bit sorry for Huntingdon. Once a county town, it was downgraded in status during the county boundary changes in 1965 when Huntingdonshire became part of the short-lived Huntingdon and Peterborough County. It’s suffered more indignity since, it’s now part of Cambridgeshire. Still, it should be reconciled to government reform. Oliver Cromwell was born here in 1599… 

We’d decided to pull over around Godmanchester, to try to avoid the forecasted rain this afternoon.

The Gods were smiling, a boat was just pulling out of Godmanchester Lock as we arrived.
The boat was NB De Nada, the crew blog readers. Thanks folks, have a good trip.

The backwater above the lock has moorings along the parkside, and a short length just alongside the lock. I tried to reverse down, not sure that we could turn around above the sluice, but only got as far as the first, EA, length. The wind was making it very difficult. I gave up any attempt to go further down, and pulled in on the end of the EA mooring. A bit Katy-cornered, but it’ll do.


The forecast was right, we’ve had rain most of the afternoon, although Meg and I did manage a dry hour for a walk around the adjacent Portholme Meadow.
The 257 acre meadow is the largest flood meadow in England, usually inundated in the winter and used for hay in the spring then grazing in the autumn. It’s also an SSSI, containing several rare plant species. The name Portholme isn’t a reference to a port or dock. It’s Anglo-Saxon in origin demonstrating the historical importance of the site. Port means market town, and holme means meadow, therefore Portholme is literally town meadow.

If we want to have a look up the River Lark on the way back to Denver we’ll have to make this the furthest upstream we get this trip. So we’ll be heading on back to St. Ives tomorrow. You never know, by the time we’re back in this neck of the woods again the Bedford & Milton Keynes Waterway link might be open. It’s proposed to link the top end of the Great Ouse Navigation at Bedford with the Grand Union Canal at Milton Keynes. It would provide an alternative route from the canal network to these East Anglian rivers.

Hi Mark. Do it, you’ll have a fantastic day! I did a bit of a summary on this post, it’ll give you an idea of what’s involved. If you want any more info, phone numbers etc., feel free to drop me an email.

Locks 2, miles 4½

As I was going to St. Ives…

…I met a man with seven wives…
I couldn’t get the old rhyme out of my head yesterday morning as we headed upstream to the town. An earworm, I think they call it.

As I was going to St.Ives, I met a man with seven wives

Each wife had seven sacks, Each sack had seven cats

Each cat had seven kittens.

How many were going to St. Ives?

I did do the calculation, though.

Depending on your point of view it’s either 2043 or 1… The St.Ives in question is believed to be the Cornish one anyway.

After a bright start the day clouded over and the wind picked up, making it feel cool again. I wish the weather would settle down.

It was quiet on the GOBA mooring near Aldreth Bridge last night, although our neighbour Dobbin was doing his best to keep the vegetation down.
Despite his best efforts it’s still a bit shaggy..

On the lookout for breakfast

We had about three miles to go to Hermitage Lock, trying to avoid banks of the dreaded blanket weed that has a remarkable affinity for boat propellers…

Hermitage Lock

The lock is staffed, as it raises boats up onto the 2½ mile tidal section. You have to wait for the green light, as Mags was pointing out.

Looking back at the lock, the entrance to the New Bedford River under the bridge to the left. The lockie told us that Denver Lock was currently out of action, so this was the only way at present to get back to Salters Lode and the Middle Levels, chasing the tide for 20½ miles.

The wide, deep tidal section is easy cruising, ending at Brownshill Staunch and lock.
The vegetation gives some indication of the narrow tidal range.

Tufty!

Brownshill Lock on the left.

The lock has guillotine gates at both ends, something Mags is not fond of.

In Brownshill Lock

Above Brownshill is probably the most attractive section of the river we’ve come across so far. Wide, deep and open to Holywell, then narrower with tree clad banks beyond.

Chocolate box picture at Holywell.

That’s proper river…

St. Ives Lock was staffed, due to a problem with the lower, guillotine,  gate.

Alright with us, we were in and through in short order, then heading into St.Ives itself.

Attractive waterfront and 15th century stone bridge

And a familiar boat, Derek and Sheila had arrived before us.

The bridge was completed in 1425, with six arches and a small chapel in the centre. it replaced an earlier timber structure from around 1100. The bridge chapel is one of only three in the country, and has variously been a toll house, inn and private dwelling.

There was no room on the town wharf, and it wasn’t Meg friendly anyway, the Waits looked busy too as we crawled past the end of the backwater, so we decided to head to the GOBA moorings on Noble’s Field, just out of town.

Moored at Noble’s Field.

We were lucky, as we reversed in towards the bank this surfaced alongside the counter.

Navigational Hazard!

I wouldn’t have wanted that around the prop! It’s out on the bank now, at least until some oik chucks it back in again…

In the late afternoon there was some activity on the open meadow, someone was stringing barrier tape and there were a few folk milling about. So, curious as ever, I went to find out what was occurring. It turned out that today (Saturday) was St Ives’ Rowing Club’s annual regatta, and our presence would be a nuisance. We’d intended to stay here the weekend and have a look around, but we’ll have to do that on the way back.
We stayed the night anyway, but bright and early this morning we were away, heading upstream with a tentative plan to stop at Hemingford Grey.

Leaving Noble’s Field first thing, preparations for the event well under way.

We are definitely on a better stretch of river now. Very pretty to Hemingford Grey.

Hemingford Lock was only a mile upstream, like St.Ives with mitre gates at one end and a guillotine at the other. But, unlike St.Ives, the guillotine is at the upstream end.

The lock chamber is also oddly shaped to those more used to conventional locks. There’s a layby on one side so it can accommodate more craft.
We were on our own though this morning. It was silly o’clock…

The 13th century St.James Church stands on the riverside at Hemingford Grey.
The steeple was blown down in 1741, leaving the top of the tower looking oddly truncated.

We could see that the GOBA moorings on the meadow were full, but the EA moorings sparsely occupied, so pulled in there. The edge isn’t narrowboat friendly, though, with a concrete overhang contrived to take a chunk out of the cabin side. So at the first opportunity we took advantage of a gap appearing on the meadow and moved up.
We pulled in ahead of Teal, one of the last of the aluminium Sea Otters built in the UK. Ray and Geraldine helped us get in, then had a chat before getting away. They read this blog, among others.

Good to meet you both, have a good trip.

We’ll stay here till Monday, now.

Hi Naughty-Cal. Denver Lock was out of action for a short time yesterday, apparently. It’s fixed now but is known to be a little unreliable. Your plan to come up the New Bedford is a good one. Don’t worry about the depth on the Old West. The bottom is nice and soft… and sticky, too!

Locks 4, miles 13½ (2 days)